The Guide | New Orleans

Photography © Ali McLaren

— DAY ONE — 

Named one of the Top 10 hotels in New Orleans, The Q&C Hotel (344 Camp Street) was home for our seven-night stay. Centrally located in Downtown, it's a mere three blocks from the boisterous French Quarter. If you're a first-time visitor to the Big Easy, there is no better way to set the tone for your stay than by enjoying one of the nightly jazz performances—8pm, 9pm or 10pm—at the historic Preservation Hall (726 St Peter Street). It's something special to hear the talented Will Smith sing "Do You Know What It Means to Miss New Orleans." A wander down lively Bourbon Street will lead you to Arnaud's French 75 (813 Rue Bienville) if you fancy a few old-fashioned libations before calling it a fabulous first night.

— DAY TWO — 

If it's antiques you're after, starting your day at the New Orleans Auction Galleries (333 St Joseph Street) in the heart of the Arts District is the place to do it. Silver, jewels, fine art and furniture, oh my! To orient yourself to the city, you can catch a ride on a City Sightseeing Hop-on Hop-off bus nearby at Stop 17 (look for the sign at the intersection of Julie Street & S. Peters Street). Hopping off at Magazine Street and Jackson Avenue puts you just footsteps away from the mouthwatering District Donuts Sliders Brew coffee shop (2209 Magazine Street). After you've had your fill, Goorin Bros. (2127 Magazine Street), Luca Falcone Custom Clothiers (2049 Magazine Street) and The Shops at 2011 (2011 Magazine Street) are all worth a visit. The streets of the lovely Garden District are ahead of you and free to roam when your wallet needs a rest. Head to Bacchanal Fine Wine & Spirits (600 Poland Avenue) for dinner and live music at this hidden gem in the Bywater neighborhood.

— DAY THREE — 

I've made a serious discovery at Willa Jean (611 O'Keefe Avenue)—this place serves up three warm out-of-the-oven cookies with milk and a side of cookie batter still on the beater. Yes, you read that right. It's just the sustenance you need for an afternoon in the sun alligator-spotting with Dr. Wagner's Honey Island Swamp Tour (hotel pick-up available). James-Beard-awarded Pêche Seafood Grill (800 Magazine Street) has a tasty Louisiana shrimp roll and other delicious plates on the menu for a casual dinner in the Warehouse District.

— DAY FOUR — 

If you're staying at The Q&C Hotel, catch the St. Charles Streetcar at the corner of St. Charles Avenue and Poydras Street and hop off at Louisiana Avenue. For a morning bite before hitting the six-mile-long Magazine Street shops, grab a quick coffee and pastry at the Maple Street Patisserie et Deli (3138 Magazine Street). First stop, the divinely decorated Leontine Linens showroom (3806 Magazine Street), where you will find embroidered perfection. In October 2015, Esquire magazine crowned Shaya (4213 Magazine Street) the best new restaurant in America, so make your reservation for lunch or dinner in advance — modern Israeli cuisine at its best. In your food coma, you might stumble over to Victoria (4858 Magazine Street) for a little retail therapy. Begin your evening at the legendary Jacques Imo's—their just-two-isn't-enough watermelon mojito, duck and andouille gumbo and fried green tomatoes didn't disappoint. 

— DAY FIVE — 

You've seen the vibrant French Quarter by night, but a self-guided walking tour of the streets in daylight might surprise you. With the merrymakers still asleep in their beds, the morning hours bring clear sidewalks to browse the bookshops, antique stores—check out Moss Antiques (411 Royal Street)—and happen upon unexpected craftsmen, like master mask-maker Dalili at the Mask Gallery (738 Royal Street). Don't miss a gumbo lunch at the famous Galatoire's (209 Bourbon Street)—established in 1905—where author Tennessee Williams and other big names have dined. An afternoon cocktail can quickly turn into a lazy evening of gin fizzes and a cheeseboard for dinner at The Columns Hotel (3811 St. Charles Avenue), as you watch the St. Charles Streetcars go by.

— DAY SIX — 

If you're keen to explore beyond the city, book a day trip to Oak Alley Plantation on the west bank of the Mississippi River. This Antebellum mansion—known as the Grande Dame of the Great River Road—and its long row of spectacular oak trees, planted in the early 18th century, is a national historic landmark. You'll want a few hours to explore the 25-acre property and take a guided tour of the "Big House" and the Civil War exhibit. 

Acclaimed chef and restaurateur John Besh's newest hotspots can lead you on a culinary tour around the Big Easy. Restaurant August (301 Tchoupitoulas Street) is his flagship restaurant offering new French fare—be sure to request a table in the chandelier-studded front room.

— DAY SEVEN — 

A jam-packed last day starts with the most important meal—and a Bloody Mary or two—at the popular Atchafalaya (901 Louisiana Avenue). This mother-daughter trip meant we could return to the six miles of Magazine Street shops without a guilty conscience...until our afternoon ice-cream stop at Sucré (3025 Magazine Street) that is. Find one-of-a-kind pieces at Balzac Antiques (3506 Magazine Street), ultra chic homeware at Rivers Spencer Interiors (3909 Magazine Street), Southern-bred luxury at men's and women's clothier Billy Reid (3927 Magazine Street), and stationery heaven at Box Paper Scissor (3900 Magazine Street). A quick dinner at SoBou (310 Chartres Street), and we were off to Pat O'Brien's (718 St Peter Street) for hurricane cocktails and sing-along songs. 
 

— DO YOU KNOW WHAT IT MEANS TO MISS NEW ORLEANS — 

Do you know what it means to miss New Orleans
And miss it each night and day
I know I'm not wrong this feeling's gettin' stronger
The longer, I stay away
Miss them moss covered vines the tall sugar pines
Where mockin' birds used to sing
And I'd like to see that lazy Mississippi hurryin' into spring

The moonlight on the bayou a creole tune that fills the air
I dream about magnolias in bloom and I'm wishin' I was there

Do you know what it means to miss New Orleans
When that's where you left your heart
And there's one thing more I miss the one I care for
More than I miss New Orleans

The moonlight on the bayou a creole tune that fills the air
I dream about magnolias in bloom and I'm wishin' I was there

Do you know what it means to miss New Orleans
When that's where you left your heart
And there's one thing more I miss the one I care for
More more than I miss New Orleans

- Eddie DeLange & Louis Alter